The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. The rays have different effects on the skin organ depending on their particular wavelength: so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength below 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore is of no physiological importance. By contrast, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B region, cause erythema, simple sunburn or even burns of greater or lesser severity. A maximum for the erythema activity of sunlight is stated as being the relatively narrow range around 308 nm.
Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UV-B radiation, examples thereof being derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, of 4-aminobenzoic acid, of cinnamic acid, of salicylic acid, of benzophenone, and of triazine.
It has long been incorrectly assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect. However, it has now been proven by numerous studies that UV-A radiation is far more hazardous than UV-B radiation with regard to the triggering of photodynamic, specifically phototoxic, reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The harmful effect of UV-B radiation can also be further intensified by UV-A radiation.
Thus, it has been proven, inter alia, that even UV-A radiation under entirely normal everyday conditions is sufficient to damage within a short time the collagen and elastin fibers which are of essential importance for the structure and firmness of the skin. This results in chronic photoinduced changes in the skin - the skin “ages” prematurely. The clinical appearance of skin aged by light includes, for example, wrinkles and lines and an irregular, furrowed relief. In addition, the areas affected by photoinduced skin aging may have irregular pigmentation. The formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas is also possible. Skin aged prematurely by everyday exposure to UV is additionally characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a slight chronic inflammation.
Approximately 90% of the ultraviolet radiation which reaches the earth consists of UV-A rays. Whereas UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (for example time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant from day to day irrespective of seasonal and diurnal or geographic factors. At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
It is therefore of fundamental importance that cosmetic and dermatological photoprotective preparations provide adequate protection both against UV-B and against UV-A radiation.
In general, the light absorption behavior of photoprotective filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since most industrialized countries have positive lists for the use of such substances, which impose very strict standards on the documentation.
However, the concentration in which known photoprotective filter substances present as solids are used is often restricted—in particular in combination with other substances which are to be dissolved. There are thus certain technical difficulties with regard to formulating in achieving relatively high sun protection factors and UV-A protection performance.
Advantageous UV-A filter substances are e.g. dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4-(tert-butyl)-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the name Parsol® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
The main disadvantage of all dibenzoylmethane derivatives which absorb in the UV region is a certain instability toward UV radiation, meaning that these components are decomposed under the influence of UV to give inactive products and are no longer available for UV absorption. Preparations of the prior art with a content of these substances therefore expediently also comprise certain UV stabilizers such as, for example, ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor.
The prior art also recognizes a series of different efficient, lipophilic skincare active ingredients—such as, for example, ubiquinones, retinoids and carotenoids—which contain unsaturated, aromatic or benzoidal structural elements, the use of which in cosmetic or dermatological formulations, in particular in formulations of the oil-in-water type, is very desirable. Unfortunately, however, substances of this kind are often very unstable meaning that, particularly in aqueous media, they rapidly decompose and thereby lose their effectiveness.